Friday, April 27, 2012

THE EVOLUTION OF A KITCHEN

I know the experience of putting in a new kitchen is not unique...most of the people I know--that would be you--have renovated, rebuilt, renewed a kitchen, a bathroom, a house.  But the lingering memory of it all is THE GRIT.  The crunchy, sticky, slippery stuff that travels from "the room" to every nook and cranny of the house....and no matter how much I clean, I mop, I sweep, I dust, it lives and thrives and grows.  And I'm in constant cleaning mode--not my favorite mode in which to live.  And then one day, it's done...and the cleaning continues, but the final product is admired and enjoyed.  And like the pain of childbirth, the nightmare of THE GRIT is a long-forgotten memory. 

I'm still waiting for the memory to replace the reality, but I am confident....Below is a pictorial of the process...luckily for you the grit doesn't photograph well.

exposed gas line...yep, that's cement and rock
before renovation






                                                    

pipes and plumbing--
more than I ever wanted to
know about what's behind
the walls



the artist at work!!  the tiling mostly finished....








And then IKEA came and in four hours assembled and installed all the elements...and I now have an expanded work space and a solid counter top and more cupboards...wahoo!!!

Thursday, April 12, 2012

I HAVE MORE QUESTIONS

THE BIDET:  WHAT OTHER USES??

As you know, the bidet, used for personal, intimate hygiene, is standard in most European bathrooms.  Not a bad idea and the Italians are crazy about their bidets.  My cousin, Rino, spent most of one evening extolling the virtues of the bidet and explaining, in detail, how it's the only way to REALLY get clean...down there.

Americans, not so much.  Most of us are happy with showers and  feel just as clean...down there.  However, I have found some other functional uses of the bidet.....

*  After a day of walking the hot streets of Rome or Florence, soaking my feet in cold water in the bidet...heaven!
*  If I'm giving myself a pedicure, the best place to soak my feet, in preparation...the bidet.
*  Washing my underwear....
*  Rinsing out the mop...
*  Filling it with ice and putting in a 12-pack of beer to cool...
*  But, my newest discovery...watering my plants and letting them live there for about a week.  My marjoram plant grew 3 inches last week from just sitting in the bidet.

It just shows-to-go-ya, take a cultural icon and turn it on its head, and you've got...a planter!

Which leads me to my next question---

HOW DO WE REFLECT OUR NATIONALITIES??

We play a game when we're out and about, especially sitting in the piazza having a coffee or a Compari: "Where are THEY from?" (THEY are the women with kids, the group of boys, the couple with the paper....)  I've become a great believer in idiosyncratic behavior that mirrors an entire nation--you know what they say, there is a basis for all stereotypes!

For example, Italians saunter and stroll every where they go...no hurry, no deadlines, just a cool promenade across the street, or in front of the car, or into the hardware store.  Because cutting a bella figura is important---how one looks in clothes and in actions is everything.  I work on it every day, and somehow, just when I think I've got it...I remember I forgot milk at the store and I twirl around and rush into the store---oooops, where'd my saunter go???

The British gesticulate less than the Italians.  They aren't as effusive in speech or manner, but are serious and intense while talking.  They also carry also an air of confidence and belonging, whether in Rome or Necosia or Mumbai---is that a reflection of a nation that occupied much of the world?

Americans are loud...when we are out in public, our voices carry. When we're in a group, the sound is magnified.   When I laugh hard, my laugh fills a room...(I like to laugh), but that immediately identifies me as American because the Italians don't laugh out loud like that.  When Gary is making a point, an important point, his voice fills the room, his singular voice demands attention...and people look--at him when he talks, at me when I laugh.  Oh well, we've embraced our idiosyncrasies!! 

Clothes are a great definer...but it's becoming harder and harder because, I believe, of the influence of television and films.  Teenagers, for example, look the same whether in California or Porto, Portugal.  Jeans, t-shirts, sweatshirts.  Italians don't wear tennis shoes when they go out.  To the gym, yes.  To have a coffee or to go shopping, absolutely not!  There was a time only Americans wore tennis shoes out; comfort being the operative here.  The Italians would rather be uncomfortable and look good than be comfortable and look bad---ahhhh, la bella figura raises its head once again. 

We have recently joined a gym (yes, applause, please) and leave first thing in the morning, have our cappuccini, and hit the treadmill---but, we leave with our workout clothes on and run errands after the gym, in our workout clothes, then go home and shower and change.  Where do we think we are???  California???  We're obviously more concerned with comfort and utility than how we look....we'll never be Italian!

And a fanny pack???  Forget it...nothing attractive about those!

So our game continues....how someone sits, walks, dresses, talks, gesticulates, interacts with friends, orders coffee, greets friends all contribute to an image of not only who they are, but where they're from!

SINCE WHEN DID THE WEATHER BECOME SOOOO IMPORTANT??

It's so obvious, weather conditions impact crops and travel and livestock and world economies...I just seem to have missed it.  Do ya think living in Southern California, where we live in perpetual spring, has something to do with it?

Here, the weather dictates everything.  Do we go out today??  Can we plant our flowers yet?  Does the car need snow tires so we can drive on the roads??  WHAT DO I WEAR TODAY??  Are we having company, will we need to put a million blankets on the bed??  Do I need my umbrella?  Shall I wear my down jacket or the leather one???  Will the Regata be a success??  Will I be able to eat fresh mussels??  Can I have tea in the garden or in the house??

So every day we check the weather channel, online for the 10 day forecast, and look at the sky.  But the sky isn't consistent---it could be brilliantly clear in the morning and then covered by dark rain clouds by mid-day.  How can I decide whether we'll go to the cheese festival or not?  Will the flower festival be rained out??  Are festivals rained out?  Can I go for a bike ride--if I went for bike rides--??  Are we expecting a thunder storm?  If so, the dog next door freaks out at thunder and has been known to tear up our screen door just to get to people.  Are the winds kicking up??  Do we need to bring the umbrellas in??  And on and on and on....

It's an awakening to a primal and visceral element...mixed with great awe.  I hate being "controlled" by the weather, but we don't control it, it controls us...and one must be respectful.  It puts everything into perspective; makes our petty plans and problems just that, petty. 
            ________________________________________________________________

Bidets and idiosyncrasies and the weather...I have trouble reining in my mind.  But, I have the joy and privilege of looking at my life through a different lens each and every day---thanks for letting me share it with you!






Tuesday, March 27, 2012

I HAVE QUESTIONS...

Question #1:
WHEN IS AN ADVENTURE NOT AN ADVENTURE??
                ***SPOILER ALERT***SPOILER ALERT***SPOILER ALERT***

(If you read this, it will quickly become apparent what whimps and whooses Gary and I are...if you'd like to maintain the image of us as intrepid travelers, jump ahead to Question #2.)

"Eeeek" quickly became our shorthand for "Watch-the-fuck-out" in our attempt to navigate Cyprus while driving on the LEFT side of the road.  There are, of course, many combinations and permutations of "eeek."
**For example, one small, sotto voce "eeeek" means there's a person about the cross the street that you're not going to see because you're looking the WRONG way.
**A double "eeeek" accompanied by a pointing to the left means there's a car parked on the street that will be hit if YOU DON'T MOVE TO THE RIGHT.
**A quick intake of breath, coupled with several "eeeks" means there are cars headed right for us and we are certain to die within the next 2 minutes of you don't HIT THE GAS NOW!!!
**But my favorite, one I used more than any other, is multiple "eeeks" building in speed and volume...Imagine:  "eeeek, eeeek, eeeEEK, eeeEEKKK, EEEEKKKKK."  This means, of course, you're going to rear end that car if you don't SLOW THE FUCK DOWN--NOW.

Obviously, we made it out of Cyprus alive...but it was with great relief to have the driver take us to the airport.  People learn to drive on the "wrong" side of the road, it happens every day, they establish new patterns and habits, and it's seamless....just not for us.

I was reminded of when I moved to LA with my family and we were introduced to the freeway system.  My Dad was officially freaked out...so, when we all got in the car, an announcement was made, "we're getting on the FREEWAY," and it was understood we had to sit down and shut up so he could navigate the speed and traffic.  So my sister, brother, and I would sit very still and very quietly in the back seat until we reached our destination.  Image a stair step of  three heads frozen, looking forward, afraid to move.  After about 2 weeks we could no longer resist the prodding and teasing and talking necessary while in the back seat; Dad just had to adjust.

In our discussions about what truly defines "adventure," Gary asserts it's the adrenaline of a new situation and the challenge to overcome it.  I'd just like less "eeeks."

 From our terrace, the Mediterranean greeted us every morning.
And to the right, the Byzantine Castle, St. Hilarion, shadowed over us...St. Hilarion has since been renamed "Gary's Castle" because he climbed all the way to the top while I drank tea!  There is the castle at the top of the mountain...it's said this was Walt Disney's inspiration for Sleeping Beauty's Castle!!
Question #2:
WHY BOTHER PLANNING ANYTHING??

The reason we decided to go to Cyprus was to visit Othello's Castle...Shakespeare's play takes place in Famagusta, a port city in Northern Cyprus--(now a ghost town...a creepy other story)--and there is a famous castle named for Othello.  So, Tuesday morning we took off for Famagusta, amid "eeeks" and excitement, only to be told upon our arrtival--wait for it-- the castle is under renovation!  Wouldn't you know it??

We saw lots of cool stuff in Famagusta, but not my castle!


Henceforth, we plan to make no plans....


 We stayed in Karmi Village in North Cyprus...this is the church and an interesting guy.  Abandoned by the Greeks in 1974, the Tourism Board of Turkey thought to sell the abandoned properties to expats, mostly British, who have lovingly restored the village using only local goods and services and retaining the original structures.  There is a great restaurant, Levant, and a lovely neighborhood pub, The Crow's Nest.  Food, views, drinks, stories, companionship...great place to stay!




WAIL, WAIL, WAIL---DO MY WAILS CARRY ACROSS THE SEA???   I went to a local hairdresser here and she demolished my hair....I find I'm terribly sensitive about how I'm looking and aging, so to have my hair butchered has not helped, but, this does lead to my next question:

Question #3:
JUST HOW POWERFUL ARE GENETICS???

I remember how my Mom refused to have her picture taken in the morning.  And on those occasions where we brandished a camera, she always deflected it.  Does this ring any familiar bells with anyone else??

One beautiful morning in Cyprus, Gary thought he'd capture the glory of morning and brandished a camera in my face....the result??  A carbon copy of all the pictures of my Mom deflecting the eye of the camera.  Wanna see it??  Are ya sure??   Really, truly ready??


Honest??


keep scrolling down


prepare yourself.....


weird, huh??  It's my Mom!!


and this is me!!


Every time Gary and I travel we have the opportunity to meet people, experience other cultures, and step outside our comfort zone, which leads to grand adventures and greater understandings...thank you for sharing our "eeeks" and plans and shocks of recognition!













Monday, March 12, 2012

AMERICAN GOTHIC, KISMET, AND GAS...OH MY!

Aside from the envy you must be feeling for the very attractive outfit I'm wearing, LOOK AT THAT SNOW....see how deep it is??  I could say I singlehandedly shovelled the entire driveway pictured, but that would be a lie...I was much more concerned about my outfit! 

If you squint, you can see the house at the end of drive; next to the house is our little Fiat Panda, which was buried completely under the snow.  So, it becomes clear why shovelling was necessary....

But we're Southern California people, we don't know anything about snow or how to shovel it or how to drive in it or...anything.  Ahhh, our part of Italy imparts lesson after lesson after lesson!
 
                            But what a beautiful lesson...as long as you've got a shovel and warm clothes.
                                                  (Picture by David McIntyre, new friend)

We've been back in Italy a month and spent the first two weeks making sure everything worked....  we've got heat and snow tires and new phones and working internet and a new IKEA kitchen coming...life is good! 

30 years ago I worked with a lovely woman, Sherri Johnson, who happens to live in Florence.  So we embarked on a weekend visit--to reacquaint ourselves and compare "living in Italy" experiences. 
Sherri and her husband, Curly, opened their home and their arms to us--once I got over the fact I have indeed aged over the last 30 years---we settled in and found people who are simpatici--of like minds and hearts.

Sherri said it best,  "Friends seem more important here--maybe because we have time to spend with friends, maybe because it is comfortable to be with people who share similar interests and backgrounds, or maybe it's because we'd be friends with you even if was the first time we met--I think we all felt a connection and it feels good!"

And then being in beautiful Florence--what 's not to love? 

*  We are paying the equivalent of $10/gallon for gas---yep, you read that correctly, $10!!!  It gives us pause every time we get in the car---but I refuse to let that stymie my explorations!

*  I found a yoga class--taught in Italian, thank you very much--that I have begun.  It's a challenge, but it brings me closer to the community in which we live...and if we live here, I'd like to be part of the community.

*  We've joined a gym--no English spoken there, either--but ya know, sweat is sweat in any language and the tread mill works the same way.

*  We're visiting Cyprus next week to see Othello's Castle...and anything else the island has to offer.

Nature, Fate, Community, Politics have shaped our lives this past month...I am anxious to see what the next months hold for us!


Monday, August 15, 2011

SNIPPETS

My friend, Lynne, is quick to point out August is "the season"...for everything.  Many, many dinners with friends, bike rides (not me, other people), swimming, gardening, fishing (not me, other people), parties, festas, time to talk and become acquainted or reacquainted....Our summer has been no different....


"I thank thee moon, for shining now so bright;/
For, by thy gracious, golden, glittering gleams,/
I trust to take of truest Thisby sight."
                                          (Midsummer)

The full moon's a-risin' over Le Marche...

there are times when my breath is literally sucked out of body when I turn around and see--
this!!  August 12, 2011.


 FAMILY TIME.....
                                                                              
2nd Cousin David, 3rd Cousin Flavio

Cousins Tina and Rino


We had the opportunity to spend time with our Roman family...fabulous food, lively conversation, multi-generational gatherings that warmed the cockles.

                                            
                                                          Cousin Clara celebrating her 80th birthday....
                                                     Oh that we all could look so good!!
ITALIAN FESTAS!!

We live in an agricultural area
and hay bales are an important industry
and art form!
we were transported to the Middle Ages for
the Quintana in Ascoli Piceno...this was
just the opening parade!!

Honestly, don't you want to take him home???
yep, he's got a lance in his hand...
for JOUSTING!
transported indeed....
FRIENDS:

Morning cappuccini
Gary, Bill, Bill, Chris, Mary
 How lucky were we this summer to have visitors from all over the world??  Our days were full of exploring the area, eating local food, drinking local wine, seeing spectacular art, appreciating the phenomenal area!  Mostly, it was a pleasure to share our part of the world with our friends!
 


Dennis and Kathy
on top of the world!


 



Scott, Germana,
Francesca, Filippo
breakfast on the
terrace! 


John and Angela,
our cohorts in culinary experiments!

Monday, July 25, 2011

I CADUTI

I Caduti means The Fallen
Here in Italy every town, every village, every burg, every city has a monument to their caduti, honoring those lost in wars.  The monuments are in the center of town, well-landscaped, mostly well-cared for, and works of art.  I've been taking photos of these monuments for 7 months now, and I wanted to share some of them with you.

They are a patriotic gesture that honors these young people and their families;  they are a daily nudge to REMEMBER--War has a price and makes an idelible mark.

This is my paean to The Fallen of Italy.

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Saturday, July 9, 2011

SOPHIA, BERLUSCONI, and ME

Italians love women.  Italian men, especially, love women--all women.  The whole world loves Italian women.  I mean, when a country produces the likes of Sophia Loren and my mother...what's not to love?

                                              
         Sophia to the left,
                Mom to the right!!








And then there's Berlusconi, who really loves women---young women, women he puts into Parliament.  Hmmmmm, and a nation follows him?   So, do you think the men of Italy think if they vote for him they'll be able to live like him???  (Secondo me, Mr. B has set women's rights back decades.)

I read recently that men in Italy can retire at 60, but women have to wait until 65.  I also heard that in our local hospital, the male doctors are called Dottore, while female doctors are called Signora. 

Italian men rarely help with the housework--it is considered beneath them.  So if the wife is working outside the home, she is still expected to take care of the house, the laundry, the cooking, the kids.  (My cousins Stefano and David are exceptions here.)  I have another cousin who, living alone and divorced, took his shirts to Mama to be washed and ironed every week.

And then there is the mammone phenomenon...grown, unmarried men who still live with Mama.  This is a national phenomenon--our friend, Scott, told of a recent incident when he went into an empty store and the proprietor, rather than helping Scott, made a call, "Mama, che fai per pranzo oggi?"  Mama, what are you making for lunch today?  Food and Mama, both high priorities!

So, we're living in a country where la bella figura dominates public perceptions---how one looks and acts in public, the figure one cuts, the clothes one wears, the way one comports him/herself.  We're living in a country where women are admired and appreciated physically--all women of all ages and sizes.  We're living in a country where women are still expected to fulfill the traditional roles while holding down a job.  We're living in a country where women have to fight for rights and recognition outside of the house and bedroom....

My Challenge:  find a way to remain strong and independent and outspoken and untrodden-upon (I think I made up that word) while maintaining good relations with the locals.

Sometimes I want to shout and stomp my feet to make myself heard, but, Pat, not much bella figura goin' on there.  So I've had to find a way to maintain my ways of thinking and advance my agendas while maintaining la bella figura and avoiding the "ugly American" label.  Patience is the key--something of which I have very little--slowly, pleasantly moving forward.  And, my husband/partner, who likes to do laundry and dishes, goes a long way towards ameliorating my irritation. 

I offer coffee and croissants, make lists, and think really hard about how to approach the plumber or mason or painter; Gary and I clarify our goals.  Then Gary makes the calls (Italian men are much better man-to-man), describes the problems to them,  supervises the jobs, and delivers the money when all is said and done.  I offer coffee and croissants, smile, translate when necessary, and make sure everything is what we want.  I'm playin' the system...have I sold out?  Sometimes I think so, but, if I can get the work done, my ideas across, save money, and maintain good relations, everybody wins. 

It's hard work curbing my tongue.  I have to constantly remember the goal:  Access, understand, assimilate the culture...LATER, I can change it.

I wonder, did Sophia sell out?  She used her beauty, magnetism, and sexuality to catapult herself into international stardom.  Did my mother sell out??  She held onto her essential self her whole life---even when she sublimated herself to my dad, she never let her core dissipate.   Do Berlusconi's women sell out in order to attain power??  Or are they just smart??  Ummm, yeah.  So women, members of the "weaker sex," have been playing the system for eons--and winning. 

Italians love women.
Women are strong.
Therefore, Italians love strong women. 

I knew it all along!!!