Tuesday, April 26, 2011

A LITTLE OF THIS....


AND A LITTLE OF THAT!!


MINE, MINE, MINE (actually, ours, ours, ours)...
we are the proud owners of OUR OWN Italian car...no more rentals!!


3 1/2 months of Italian bureaucracy and rental cars and we are now "legal"... we've got all the documents we need to buy a car!  Whew!!




Gary, me, and our friend, Filipo Nibbi (a very famous Italian poet and 
actor) in front of a blooming apricot?, plum?, cherry?  tree in the hills outside of Bologna...it was a lovely spring day!



a view of the loggia in our main piazza...note the banner with the Pope's picture on it...it's an Easter greeting.

If you look to the left, seated at the table, you can see that husband of mine, drinking a compari!!







white chocolate, dark chocolate, milk chocolate...almost too beautiful to eat!

okay, I know everything grows wild somewhere,
but I was surprised to see wild irises among
the weeds on the side of the road!
 
Cousins Rino and Tina ooo-ing and
ahhing over this egg!!
                                                                
This is my favorite pink tree...

Sooooo, nature, spring, chocolate, Tina & Rino, compari,  pink trees, blue flowers, and
a car...a few of my favorite things!

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

EVA & EDDIE

Okay, how many of you remember a television series, Green Acres, with Eva Gabor and Eddie Albert, 1965-1971??  Raise your hands.  (I know you're dating yourself a little here--and I certainly am--but it gives you a frame of reference!)  Here's a picture to jog your memory:

Now, insert faces of Pat and Gary---
and the saga begins...tame the land, work the machines, trim the trees, plant the flowers.  (To my gardening friends, Lynne, Jamie, Angela, Pam, I don't understand your passion, but I absolutely respect it!)


With Spring springing, the weeds have run amuck--by amuck I mean knee-to-waist high.  A thick mass of unkempt greenery covered our front yard.  Time to get the weed wacker out.  With manual in hand, we started it, Gary put on the protective gear--white suit, gloves, goggles--and began.  I watched.  (Those of you who know anything about gardening know that the weed wacker, henceforth called WW, can only TRIM weeds that long.)  With much swearing and weeds flying and dodging of stone, the tops of the weeds came off.  And we quit for the day.

Next day:  we decided to use a bigger blade, not the skinny orange plastic thingies, for the WW, to get to the bottom of the weeds.  Enter the neighbors:  farmers, gardeners, raisers of living things, they asked, ever-so-politely, what were we planning to do with that muther of a blade???  When told of our plans, again, ever-so-politely, they told us that blade was better used for tree branches, not weeds.  Would we like him, Silvano, to finish up the trimming for us?  It would only take five minutes and he'd be happy to do it.  Hell YES!!!

We can only imagine the conversation they had a lunch:  Did you see the blade the Americans were going to use for the weeds?  Don't they know they could take out a window with a flying stone from that blade?  Break an ankle?  Flatten a tire?  Blind himself??  And it took Silvano only TEN MINUTES to finish the job. 

I don't like gardening.  I don't like to get dirt under my fingenails.  My manicure goes to hell when I work in the garden.  BUT, I love a pretty garden.  I love a neatly manicured lawn, pretty flowers, colorful plants, rich, green trees.  Usually we hire a gardener to do the job...this year we vowed to embrace country life and do it ourselves.  (enter:  Eva and Eddie) 

Sidebar:  I just got up to get a glass of water--2 AM here--and saw a 3" scorpion on the wall.  Oh yeah, I'm embracin' country life...I only squealed once.  He is no longer with us.

Also, I don't like to ask for help.  I can read a manual and research when to plant a seed and how much to water a geranium.  I assume I can figure out how to trim the weeds and plant the plants...not true.  It is a humbling experience to be unable to do something so apparently simple.

We now have a master plan to tame the land in front of the house--our bosco, forest, will have to wait another year--we're putting gravel down and planting all trees and plants in manageable pots, thereby limiting our gardening excesses.  We will have the pretty flowers and trees with  minimum gardening work, we hope.

 Eva and Eddie will live to face another day of uncharted life in the country!

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

IN THE EYE OF THE ITALIAN STORM

We live in a Catholic country and are not Catholic.  We live in a country greatly impacted by and angry about illegal immigration; we have California roots and embrace diversity.  We are welcomed into the homes of family members who are really strangers.

I always thought Carnival was reserved for Rio and New Orleans--with wild, outlandish costumes and behavior to match.  I was surprised to discover a Carnival celebration in the centro storico of every village, burg, town, city in Italy--and they range from parades to parties to feasts with costumes and floats and lots and lots of food!  The feste generated by the Catholic Church are many and varied--a Saint's Day or holy season--there's an excuse for a party or a day off or a celebration every other week!  Do you know there's a festa the day after Easter called Pasquetta?  yep, people take the day off (not so much any more) and go out to the country and have a picnic and enjoy the fine weather.

The feste, of course, are not limited to religious celebrations.  Gary and I went out for pizza on March 8 and found the pizzeria filled with women, only women, at long tables having a great time.  There were the matriarchs, the Italian mamas, the working women, the young girls, all enjoying pizza and each other.  I assumed (you know what that makes me) this was related to Carnival because it was the day before Lent began; but nooooooo, it was Festa delle Donne, Festival of the Women, a national day celebrating the emancipation of women.  Who knew???  The women knew.

And then there was the March 17th celebration the Unification of Italy, 150 years.  It was a festa  day---4th of July on St. Patrick's Day---so it was an imposed day off for the laborers, they didn't get paid and were not very happy.  But the celebration was on, then off, then on, then off again, then, finally on....the country was to celebrate with--hot dogs and corn-on-the-cob?--speeches and food.  The North didn't participate because they are mad at the state, the rest of the country sporadically participated.  Mostly, it was a day off.

Life in Italy whirls around us; everybody knows when there's a Saint's Day or a National festa, except us.  We always find out by accident...we're living in a vacuum of ignorance.  So we read every sign we see and scour the public announcements so as not to be taken unaware....

Lampedusa is the center of the news here in Italy.  All the refugees from Tunisia are fleeing to Italy; once they get to Lampedusa, there is no water or food or sanitation, and the Senate is trying to pass a law that will outlaw their entrance into the country; a military, mandatory evacuation of 1500 refugees occured last week.  There is also a proposition on the floor of the Italian Senate to pay refugees to return to their homelands...of course, what's to stop them from returning and collecting more money to return home???

The Italians are angry.  They love their country and the life they've forged.  They don't want desperate illegals using their resources and abusing their land.  There is not enough work for the children of Italy; college graduates have to leave the country to find work--I have two cousins who fit into this category--why should native sons and daughters lose work to refugees???  The face of Italy is changing with the face of the world; the people I've spoken to are outraged and feeling helpless.

This is counter-intuitive to what we in America, and California specifically, have always believed--that the richness of many cultures enriches the one, larger culture.  Different traditions, food, interactions, languages, philosophies, religions feed the larger community--or so we believe.

Political life in Italy--from dealing with the refugees to dealing with Berlusconi--whirls around us with passion and intensity.  We watch, we listen, we try to understand.

Ahhh, family...an amazing phenomenon in this country.  My cousins, many whom I've not seen in years, open their homes and hearts to us.  Others we see once a year, and yet, that tie is iron-strong...we talk of my mom and my siblings and the nephews and nieces, their kids and work and homes---but in the middle of it all, I stop and realize these people, who I really don't know at all, share my grandfather.  We're family.  My Zio Gino is Cousin Rita's father--we're connected by an invisible bond.  We're family, but we're strangers.  Compounded by a language barrier, we deal with the superficial, but if we're fortunate, we delve beneath the surface and touch each other's essences.  We're family, but we're strangers.  They don't know what I read or how I think, I don't know their politics or religious bent.  But we're family.

The familial bond is a sacred trust in this country.  Family above all.  The sacrifices and generosity related to family abound---the spirit of family whirls around us as we accept their love and kindness and try to reciprocate.

Much of our life here is spent watching and listening and learning...Italian life is vital and vivacious and generous and chaotic, but it is ever-moving about us.  We sit quietly (sort of) and absorb what we can, for soon, we will move out of the eye of the storm and into the tumultousness of this Italian life.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

LA-DEE-DA!!

We just found out the Italian Cup, the Sailboat Regata, will be held on our lake the end of April, la-dee-da!!  The place is buzzin'; trees are trimmed and cut, weeds are burned, land is cleared and leveled---and the Americans look on, astounded that so much can be done to tame the land.  We pick up our jaws and go have a cappuccino!!  

The official website (if you're interested) is http://www.italiancup.it/  Most of it is still under construction--how very Italian, BUT, you can get a great picture of our lake when it's full!  This is our view....how lucky are we??

Yesterday they closed the dam to begin to fill up the lake--this is an agricultural lake, 6 months its a river, 6 months its a lake.  Here are two pictures of the lake after one day of filling...



The lake screams "Summer" to us...ahhh, the luxury of going out without a coat, sleeping with the windows open, keeping warm without stoking the fire!!  can't wait....

We have a short giro, trip, planned for the next ten days....we expect the lake will be full upon our return.

At that time, the Americans will commence the weeding and sprucing and planting the rest of the community has already completed!

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

LET'S GET POLITICAL, POLITICAL

I can't help myself, I try, but I just can't shut up....sooooo, at 3 AM I leap out of bed and head for my computer.  We are as sheltered from the world news as we want to be here in our corner of Italy, but even here, the California budget and Wisconsin politics have permeated our protected cocoon. 

RE: California:  In our last "special election," which, by the way, cost millions of dollars to mount, the people of California voted NOT to increase taxes, yet they are furious about losing services.  In any family budget, if the money is not there, things are cut out.  Don't have enough to buy a new car?  Fix the old one.  Can't justify dining at Ruth's Chris Steak House?  Buy the steaks and eat at home.  Can't afford a private school?  Go to a State University.  Any family evaluates income and expenses and adjusts accordingly, especially in this economic climate.

But, I am tired of people not taking responsibility for their actions.  The people voted not to increase taxes; with that vote, there are consequences.  I am appalled at how many Americans expect something for nothing; assuming it is an inalienable right to have EVERYTHING.  We are supposedly grownups--own up, be adult, admit we are going to have to hurt a little bit to get us back on our feet.   Suck it up, pay a little more in taxes--especially to protect our educational system.

Priorities??  How about our kids and their schooling?  How about having less than 40 students per class?  How about opening a few more sections for the vets coming back from Afghanistan and Iraq?  Nothing is free in this world....we can't expect tuition to be reduced (or not raised) and not pay for it.  Brown is facing an uphill battle to get his budget passed:  according to yesterday's LA Times, 58% of Californians are willing to pay more taxes and suffer some cuts to get the state more fiscally secure.  That's adult....we've got to give, we've got to suck it up, we've got to clearly establish priorities, pay for our services, and take care care of our students.

RE:  Wisconsin:  My friend, Kathy, sent these two pieces to me (one a comedic look at Scott Walker, the other a letter from a Wisconsin teacher)---these reflect my sentiments exactly while saying it much better than I.  So, for your reading pleasure....

Wisconsin Wit:
The Governor of Wisconsin, Scott Walker, was seated next to a little girl on an airplane so he turned to her and said, "Do you want to talk? Flights go quicker if you strike up a conversation with your fellow passenger."
The little girl, who... had just started to read her book, replied to the total stranger, "What would you want to talk about?"
Oh, I don't know," said the governor. "How about collective bargaining rights, unemployment, or the budget repair bill" as he smiled smugly.
"OK," she said. "Those could be interesting topics, but let me ask you a question first. A horse, a cow, and a deer all eat the same stuff - grass.
Yet a deer excretes little pellets, while a cow turns out a flat patty, and a horse produces clumps. Why do you suppose that is?"
The governor, visibly surprised by the little girl's intelligence, Thinks about it and says, "Hmmm, I have no idea."
To which the little girl replies, "Do you really feel qualified to discuss collective bargaining rights, unemployment, or the budget repair bill, when you don't know shit?"
And then she went back to reading her book.
Open Letter to Governor Walker: 
 To the Duly-Elected Governor of Wisconsin, Scott Walker (and anyone else who gives a hoot):

It has only been a week, and I grow weary of the political struggle that your Budget Repair Bill has caused. I am tired of watching the news, though I have seen many of the faces of those I hold dear as they march on the Capitol. I am tired of defending myself to those who disagree with me, and even a bit tired of fist-bumping those who do. I am tired of having to choose a side in this issue, when both sides make a certain degree of sense. And so I offer you this desultory (aimless or rambling) philippic (angry long-winded speech), because at the end of the day I find that though this issue has been talked to death, there is more that could be said. And so, without further ado, here are my points and/or questions, in no particular order.

1. You can have my money, but…. Ask any number of my students, who have heard me publicly proclaim that a proper solution to this fiscal crisis is to raise taxes. I will pay them. I have the great good fortune to live in a nation where opportunity is nearly limitless, and I am willing to pay for the honor of calling myself an American. Incidentally, Warren Buffett, the second richest man in the nation (and a Democrat) agrees with me. Your proposed Budget Repair Bill will cost me just under $3000 per year at my current salary, with the stated goal of saving $30 million this year on the state budget. I say, take it. You can have it. It will hurt me financially, but if it will balance the budget of the state that has been my home since birth, take it with my blessing. But if I may, before you do, I have some questions.

      •According to the 2009 estimate for the U.S. Census, 5,654,774 people live in the state of Wisconsin. Of those, 23.2% are under the age of 18, and presumably are not subject to much in the way of income tax. That still leaves about 4,342,867 taxpayers in the state of Wisconsin. If you wished to trim $30 million off of the budget, that works out to about $6.91 per Wisconsin taxpayer. So I must ask: Is it fair that you ask $3000 of me, but you fail to ask $6.91 of everyone? I know that times are tough, but would it not be more equitable to ask that each taxpayer in the state contribute an extra 13 cents a week?
      •Would you please, kindly, explain exactly how collective bargaining is a fiscal issue? I fancy myself to be a fairly intelligent person. I have heard it reported in the news that unless the collective bargaining portion of this bill is passed, severe amounts of layoffs will occur in the state. I have heard that figure given as 6,000 jobs. But then again, you’ve reportedly said it was 10,000 jobs. But then again, it’s been reported to be as high as 12,000 jobs. Regardless of the figure, one thing that hasn’t been explained to my satisfaction is exactly how or why allowing a union to bargain collectively will cost so much money or so many jobs. Am I missing something? Isn’t collective bargaining essentially sitting in a room and discussing something, collectively? Is there now a price tag on conversation? How much does the average conversation cost? I feel your office has been eager to provide doomsday scenarios regarding lost jobs, but less than willing to provide actual insight as to why that is the case. I would welcome an explanation.
      •Why does your concern over collective bargaining, pensions, and healthcare costs only extend to certain unions, but not all? Why do snow plow drivers and child care providers and teachers and prison guards find themselves in “bad” unions, but firefighters and state police and local police find themselves in unions that do not need to be effected by your bill? The left wing news organizations, of course, state that this is because these are unions that supported your election bid, while you seek to punish those unions that did not; I would welcome your response to such a charge. You have stated that the state and local police are too vital to the state to be affected. Can I ask how child care, or prison guards, or nurses or teachers are not vital? Again, I would welcome a response.
      •Though you are a state employee, I have seen no provision in your bill to cut your own pension or healthcare costs. The governor’s salary in Wisconsin was about $137,000 per year, last I checked. By contrast, I make about $38,000 per year. Somewhere in that extra $99,000 that you make, are you sure you couldn’t find some money to fund the state recovery which you seem to hold so dear? As you have been duly elected by the voters of Wisconsin, you will receive that salary as a pension for the rest of your life. I don’t mean to cut too deeply into your lifestyle, but are you sure you couldn’t live off $128,000 per year so that you could have the same 7% salary reduction you are asking certain other public employees to take?

 2. Regarding teachers being overpaid and underworked. I don’t really have many questions in this regard, but I do have a couple of statements. If you haven’t already figured it out, I am a teacher, so you may examine my statement for bias as you see fit. I admit I find it somewhat suspect that teachers are mentioned so prominently in your rhetoric; those protesting at the Capitol are indeed teachers. But they are also students, and nurses, and prison guards, and plumbers, and firefighters, and a variety of other professions. If you could go back to “public sector employees,” I would appreciate it. But as far as being overpaid and underworked … I grant you, I have a week’s vacation around Christmas. I have a week off for Spring Break. I have about 10 weeks off for summer. With sick days and personal days and national holidays and the like, I work about 8.5 months out of every year. So perhaps I am underworked. But before you take that as a given, a couple of points in my own defense.
      •The average full-time worker puts in 40 hours per week, 50 weeks per year, with two weeks’ vacation time. That makes for a grand total of 2000 hours per year. Part of the teachers’ arguments regarding their time is that no one sees how many hours they work at home to grade papers, or create lesson plans, or things of that nature. I am in a rare state, in that I am not one of those teachers. I work an hour from where I live, and I like to keep my work at work. I, therefore, do not bring work home with me, but rather stay at school, or come in early, so that I can grade papers or create lesson plans while at school. So I am more prepared than most to explain the hours it takes to do my job. I also supervise an extra-curricular activity (as many teachers do), in that I serve as the Drama Coach for my school. The school year, so far, has lasted for 24 weeks. I have, in that time, averaged 78 hours per week either going to school, being at school, or coming home from school. If you remove my commute, of course, I still average 68 hours per week, thus far. That means I have put in 1,632 hours of work time this year, which works out to over 80% of what your average full time worker does in a calendar year. If you include my commute, I’m over 90%. If ikeep going at my current pace, I will work 2,720 hours this school year (or 3,120 hours if you include my commute). That means I work 136% to 156% as much as your average hourly worker.
     •As to overpaid — I’m not sure I am overpaid in general, though I do believe I am underpaid in terms of the educational level expected to do my job. I have two Bachelor’s Degrees, and will be beginning work toward my Master’s this summer. By comparison, sir, you never completed college, and yet, as previously stated, you outearn me by almost $100,000 per year. Perhaps that is an argument that I made the wrong career choice. But it is perhaps an argument that we need to discuss whether you and others like you are overpaid, and not whether teachers are.

 3. Regarding the notion that teachers that are protesting, or legislators currently in Illinois , are hurting the state. Very briefly, if I may:
      •Teachers have been accused of shirking their duties by protesting for what they believe to be their rights instead of being in school. The argument has been, of course, that no lessons have been taught when classes aren’t in session. I must submit that lessons in protest, in exercise of the First Amendment right to peaceable assembly, in getting involved as a citizen in political affairs, have been taught these past few days. The fact that they haven’t been taught in the classroom is irrelevant. Ultimately a very strong duty of the school system is to help students become citizens — I think that has clearly happened this week.
      •As to the legislators, it seems to me as though they feel their constituents deserve to have a length of time to examine the proposed bill on its merits, not vote it straight up or down three days after it was presented. As the current budget does not expire until June, this seems to me like the only response left them in light of your decision to fast-track the bill without discussion. Give them another option, and perhaps they will come back. I can’t say that I agree with their decision, but I can say that I understand it.

4. Regarding the notion that protestors at the Capitol are rabble-rousers and/or thugs. Such name-calling on the part of conservatives in the state and the conservative media could be severely curtailed if you would speak out against it. True, most of the people protesting, if not all, are liberals. Historically, liberals have always tended to think that they have far more support than they actually do. They also (in my opinion) have a tendency to get extremely organized about three months too late, if at all. So you can fault them for their decision-making, but I would ask you to speak out against the notion of thuggery. Again, very briefly:
      •So far, 12 arrests have been made. Estimates say there were about 25,000 people at the Capitol today, and about 20,000 yesterday. Let’s be conservative (mathematically) and say that 40,000 people protested over two days. That would mean that officers arrested .0003% of all protestors. By almost any definition, that is an extremely peaceful demonstration, and of course you are aware that the U.S. Constitution guarantees the right of peaceable assembly for a redress of grievances. So in the main, these people have done nothing wrong.

 5. If I may provide you with a sense of history. You work in the largest and most magnificiently appointed state capitol in the nation, built by Bob LaFollette (a Republican). You work in the same building where Phil LaFollette (a Republican) helped guide Wisconsin
out of the Great Depression. You work in the same building where Gaylord Nelson (a Democrat) was the first in the nation to offer rights to unions of state employees, rights that you now seek to overturn. And you work in the same building where Tommy Thompson (a Republican) provided more state funding to education than any other governor before or since. Are your current actions truly how you would choose to be remembered?

6. Finally, Governor, a note of thanks. Whatever the outcome of the next several days, you deserve a certain degree of credit. As an educator, I understand how difficult it can be to get young people interested in politics. You have managed to do this in the space of one week. A number of Wisconsin’s youth support you. A number of them do not. But whatever else can be said of you, you have them paying attention, and thinking about voting, and walking around the Capitol, and turning out to be involved. You have taught your own lessons this week, Governor, and that has its own value.

 Thank you for your time,
Eric Brehm

No, thank you, Eric Brehm...you've said it for all of us!!  (website:  http://positivelypersistentteach.tumblr.com/post/3512331803/a-letter-to-scott-walker-from-a-wisconsin-teacher )

I am sated, my 3 AM musings have scratched my political itch....thank you for reading, Pat

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

DRIBS AND DRABS volume #2 (people and food)

Sidebar:  We returned to our house and electricity(!) on Saturday and commenced warming up the house with a space heater.  Sunday our pellet stove was fixed (again!) and we began to settle in...Sunday evening, 8:30ish, the lights went out, all over our neighborhood.  We packed our bag to go back to the hotel.  Our neighbor, Laura, came by to tell us the electric company had explained:  the return of electricity was generator-induced, not a permanent fix.  And the generator is run by gas.  And the generator ran out of gas...RAN OUT OF GAS...someone didn't calculate correctly and the GENERATOR RAN OUT OF GAS....soooo, we went to Laura and Silvano's for a candlelight dinner, and after dinner, before leaving for the hotel, miraculously, the electricity was back on!!  So far, no further problems....either the fix is permanent, or someone has learned to calculate.

THE PEOPLE OF MOROCCO (locals and visitors alike)
*  Most authentic exchange with a local:   We met Mohammed, a former fighter pilot with the Moroccan military, and now an air traffic controller, on the 8 hour train trip to Fez from Marrakech.   Mohammed is a gentle, intelligent, outspoken, well-informed Muslim man.  He weaves his religious beliefs into everything he does... he told us Muslims use prayer to control stress, deal with problems, and find peace, if they pray with focus and honesty.  He candidly answered all my questions...for example:  why was the Call to Prayer at different times every day?  (the first Call to Prayer happens at sunrise, the last an hour and a half after sunset.)  Is his 14-year-old daughter unduly influenced by Western culture-films, tv, music-and how does he handle it?  (He is concerned, however, he trusts in the Muslim teachings and his daughter to adhere to them.)  Does his wife wear a head scarf and how does he feel about it?  (He said if she wants to wear a head scarf, she wears one, if she doesn't, she doesn't.  It is her decision.)  Why do I only see men go to the Mosques at Call to Prayer?  Are women allowed?  expected?  (Women may go to the Mosque to pray, but traditionally, women take care of the home and aren't able to attend Prayer because so many things need to be done at the home.  The quality of prayer is the important factor in the Muslim religion, not the place nor the frequency of prayer.)   Mohammed is a lovely man and we were fortunate to meet him and exchange cultural ideas...ultimately, once again it became clear, people are people, and mostly, they're good and kind.

*  Most international group:  in Fez at the Dar El Menia, Graham, the proprietor is British, his assistant, Jamal, is Moroccan, and the guests were American, New Zealanders, Canadian, and Italian....a wonderfully lively, intelligent group of people---breakfast was fun!

 L to R:  My Gary, Julie and Ginge from New Zealand, 3 bright young women from the U of Toronto,
lovely brunette whose name is gone from my head (sooo sorry), Stacy and Patty, Federica and David, Rome

*  Livliest Group:  In Fez we took a cooking class at the Cafe Clock with 3 other Americans and the chef, Souad, a vital, modern, opinionated Muslim woman-married to an artist!  We made couscous--the correct way, thank you very much--. with lamb and vegetables, a spicey soup, dessert of baked filo (hand-made filo!) stuffed with a date paste. 




 L to R, moi, Abby, studying @ U of Indiana, Chef Souad, Adele, studying in Paris her senior year, Sarah, librarian in Olympia, Washington








Chef Souad, Cafe Clock, Fez, Morocco
Which leads me, naturally, to FOOD...did you know they use no refrigeration in Morocco?  Everything is right out of the ground and onto your plate, or freshly butchered and cooked, then put onto your plate. 
Did you know the desire for lamb's head is a sign of pregnancy?  It is said if a woman wakes up in the morning and craves lamb's head, she's pregnant.  This is lovely the first few times, but, the birth rate is very high in Morocco, so the 5th or 7th or 10th time might give pause.  (Our friend, Mohammed, has an uncle who has TWENTY-FIVE children and, oh yeah, 3 wives....)
Did you know that food is so strongly imbedded into the culture that if you visit a home, WHAT is being served indicates what is going on...a wedding, a funeral, a birth....
Did you know there are also no ovens in most of the homes, so women make the bread (oh yeah, by hand) and take the bread to communal ovens?    To the left is one such oven...the baker knows every person and which bread belongs to which person!!
Did you know each spice, each food serves a function?   i.e. the foam of snails serves to cleanse your body of toxins.

FOOD CONTINUED IN VOLUME #3....

Saturday, March 5, 2011

DRIBS AND DRABS volume #1

Sidebar:  Our neighbor, Claudio, greeted us with, "I thought you had gone back to America.  Are you going back?" as we drove up to our home from our 3 week giro, drive-around.  We, of course, said no, we'd just been away and were back.  "oh," he responded, "I was afraid not having electricity would send you home."  NOT HAVING ELECTRICITY???  Not only were there floods and tempests and airport-closings and snow storms, there also is NO ELECTRICITY??  Our entire heating system (which is broken again) is electricity-based...it seems the storms took out our source, and we had no electricity for 4 days.  We stayed in a hotel, thank you very much. 

However, talking with Claudio immediately recalibrated everything--they raise free range chickens which  are chicks...they have to heat 4 barns and keep 20,000 chickens warm and alive.  If they lose the chickens they lose livelihood, if we lose electricity we have to spend a night in a hotel....this is not equal inconvenience.  We're just bigger wussies.

Morocco:  visiting Morocco profoundly impacted me; so what I'd like to do is touch on things in dribs and drabs as they come to me....

Marrakech is filthy.  The Medina, or old city center, has streets that are no bigger than alleys, jammed with locals, tourists with maps and lost faces, bicycles, motorbikes, taxis, honking horns, and hawking vendors. (Think Tijuana on a hot summer day.) A sea of food, wares, sounds, smells, sights, humanity.  And we stuck out...we couldn't blend in like we usually do...we obviously didn't belong there.  And worse, all the media depictions of Arab men came back to haunt me as we tried to get home one evening after dinner and literally got lost in the labyrinth...it was dark, it was empty except for a few groups of men and boys, and we had no idea how to get back to the hotel--no idea, none--only those movie images to accompany our echoing footsteps.  How horribly irresponsible for an entire industry to identify the villains as this ethnic group.  And being media-savvy, how terribly irresponsible of me to allow the stereotypes to impact me; it's embarrassing.

The architecture is stunning...I couldn't see enough of it.  The detail work, the hand-laid mosaics, the intricate carved Moorish trim, the archways, the bright colors.  Every house has an open, center courtyard around which the rooms are laid out, 2, 3, 4 stories high, with a rooftop terrace from which you can see the city.  In Fez, the riad, guest house, where we stayed, Dar El Menia, built (probably) in the 14th century, is beautifully renovated, and while on the rooftop, if you take a really big step, you would be on the rooftop terrace of the house next door.  The houses are that close together.

Courtyard Dar Moulay Ali
in Marrakech

Courtyard Riad Kniza, Marrakech, where
we took a cooking class!

At one of the Gates of Fez
The most interesting thing to me, however, is the juxtaposition of the entrance and the house.  A nondescript door.  On a dirty, narrow alleyway.  Down dark stairs and around dark corners.  Then the door opens and, viola!, gorgeous.  Amin, a lunch acquaintance, explained this epitomizes the culture.  One does not show off what they have; one keeps his/her wealth private so as not to embarrass his/her neighbors.  This carries over to the daily shopping.  If one has the means to buy something really special (and costly), it is put at the bottom of the shopping basket, covered by bread and produce, things all the neighbors can afford.  This way one does not flaunt his/her wealth.  It is being respectful of one another.   I couldn't help but contrast the conspicuous Western consumers...myself included...who happily and loudly show off that new tv or car or house....if we were less financially promiscuous, would we be more humane toward one another? 

The Vendors.  Ahhh, we had the most difficult interactions with the Vendors.  There are booth after booth after booth of goods...and tourists are obviously...tourists.  These men, and they are all men, are dependent upon selling their goods for their livelihood.  But they are aggressive, especially in Marrakech.  They will grab you, and they did, they will pull you into their shop, and they did, they will follow you out the door and down the street, and they did.  Once, two men grabbed Gary's arm and were pulling him in different directions...not cool.  Also, you are expected to barter for everything; and, I understand there is a heirarchy by which they name the initial price.  American, British, Canadian, French, German, Italian--so Americans are quoted the highest prices and bargain down from there, then the British, etc, etc.  I'm not a big bargainer, tell me how much something is and either I'll pay it or I won't...however, by the end of a week, I was a very good bargainer!

As Westerners, we are polite.  I don't like to ignore people or shun someone's initial contact.  Most of us don't.  In Fez, we were "adopted" by a guy on the street.  One minute we're walking along, minding our own business, and the next he's herding us through the labyrinthian streets....I swear I have no idea how it happened.  And then we were at the tanneries---really interesting---and then we were in a leather shop buying leather jackets.  (They are lovely----see?  conspicuous consumers.)  He was in place, ready to take us to the next place when we were finished, then to a restaurant, then....he wanted a tip.  We declined, in that he was in the employ of the leather shop AND the restaurant, we are sure he is getting his.

We had a very unpleasant exchange our last night in Fez...it was my "Humanity versus  Integrity" moment.  A vendor got very aggressive, ugly, sniveling---I believe in mutual respect and honesty and candor in dealing with everyone---but we were beaten down, trying to maintain our humanity, being polite, giving him the benefit of every doubt, but we folded...and later I was furious with myself for not maintaining my integrity.  Saying no when we meant no....we felt abused.  And I was pissed off...at the vendor and at myself...we left Fez anxious to get away.

I have to believe there is a very basic cultural directive that is antithetical to ours...get what you want regardless of the price.  Is that antithetical?  Or do just the methods vary?  If/when I visit Morocco again, I need to put my head in a very different mind space, then, I'm sure I will be able to maintain my humanity and my integrity....ahhh, so many lessons.

Up Next:  the wonderful people we met....(with pictures!) and the FOOD!